Awamori, the signature spirit of Okinawa, is often lumped together with shochu, the clear liquor produced in the rest of Japan. However, its production is significantly different and its history — like that of the islands themselves — is quite distinct.

Until the 17th century, the Ryukyu Kingdom was independent of Japan, and enjoyed a wide network of trading links with other Asian countries. The techniques for producing awamori were introduced from Siam (present-day Thailand) in the 15th century. Although the process underwent further refinements, to this day the base material for making the liquor is Thai long-grain rice.

The initial process is similar to the way sake is prepared. The rice is steamed, then inoculated with a particular type of koji spore that creates a black mold. Mixed with water, it is allowed to ferment, developing an alcohol content of around 17 percent. This mash is then distilled, producing liquor of up to 70 percent alcohol. It is the use of Thai long-grain rice and the special mold that gives awamori its distinctive characteristics.