"Basically, no," said the bartender at one of Kyoto's ritzier drinking establishments when I asked if he could make something hot. I could have fancy juices, cream, egg whites or yolks in my cocktail, but I could not have heat. Even in winter.

Bartenders don't seem enamored with hot drinks. Pick a bar, any bar, and ask for something to warm your innards. I'll bet you get a hot wine, hot toddy, buttered rum, boozy coffee or an apologetic wince. It's a meager lineup compared with their repertoire of iced cocktails. Luckily, I've only got space for four recipes on this page, and I know some bartenders who always have an idea up their sleeve.

If you fancy trying these recipes at home, use heat-proof glasses and warm them first by filling them with hot water and leaving to stand for a minute or two.