Through the clouds of steam rising from the hotel's hot spring, I can make out Jupiter — a tiny pinprick of light beaming over the twinkling black waters of the Seto Inland Sea. It's easy to see why this hotel is called Bella Vista. Tucked into the hills outside the historic town of Onomichi, in Hiroshima Prefecture, it commands sublime views of the Inland Sea's legend-filled labyrinth of misty islands. Meanwhile, in the onsen (hot spring), fresh sea breezes caress your skin as you boil yourself blissfully to a gooey jelly.