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TOKYO FOOD FILE

Restaurant reviews by Robbie Swinnerton

Friday, Nov. 20, 2009

Restaurant J

A favorite chef's inspired return

Fantastic news: Restaurant J has returned. After a gap of over four years, one of our most talented chefs, Masahito Ueki, is back in action in Tokyo. ...

Friday, Nov. 6, 2009

Tempura Uoshin

A masterclass at the counter

Tradition, craftsmanship, and understated refinement. These are attributes expected of any place serving traditional Japanese cuisine of a certain quality. When it comes to tempura, those same values are every bit as important. ...

Friday, Oct. 16, 2009

Tapas Molecular Bar

Elevated dining at a molecular level

Test-tube "caviar," froths and foams and taste-teasing flavor infusions, miracle fruit and desserts "cooked" at super-chilled temperatures. . . . Welcome to the brave new world of contemporary cuisine commonly known as molecular gastronomy. ...

Friday, Oct. 2, 2009

Norabo

Natural nourishment for body and spirit in Nishi-Ogikubo

Nishi-Ogikubo — or Nishiogi, as the locals like to call it — is a quiet, low-rise neighborhood, a backwater that most people overlook in their hurry to get to bustling Kichijoji. Therein lies its primary appeal. ...

Friday, Oct. 2, 2009

Norabo

Perfectly simple seasonal cuisine

Returning from any trip out of the country, it's always Japanese food that we crave. No need for anything fancy: hand-chopped soba at the neighborhood noodle shop will do us fine, or perhaps a few charcoal-grilled skewers of chicken at ...

FEATURES

What to eat and where to eat it

Friday, July 31, 2009

Sake returns to its organic roots

The sake world is looking greener as an increasing number of producers invest more time and resources in developing organic lines. In 2004, Niigata-based giant Kikusui attracted attention for opening the Sake Culture Institute, an immaculate facility dedicated to organic ...

Friday, May 29, 2009

Simple, refined French in Ebisu

If you don't have the luxury of an expense account, A ta Gueule, a tiny French hideaway in Ebisu, promises a gourmet experience that won't break the bank. ...

Friday, May 29, 2009

Forget Michelin, it's a Pellegrino

This year's string of accolades hasn't affected the modesty of chef Yoshihiro Narisawa. After earning a star in the 2009 Michelin Guide, Les Creations de Narisawa debuted at no. 20 on San Pellegrino's list of best restaurants in the world. ...

Friday, May 15, 2009

Recommendations from a Japanese cheese expert

Keiko Kubota selected and prepared the cheeses served at the 2008 G8 summit in Hokkaido. A cheese sommelier and the manager of Restaurant Gentil in Shizuoka City, Kubota has written two books on how to become a cheese sommelier and ...

Friday, May 15, 2009

Japan embraces the big cheese

Ask the experts what makes a good cheese, and at some point the conversation is going to get down to grass. After all, cheese comes from milk, and the best milk comes from animals raised on grass. ...

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LIQUID CULTURE

Good drinks, great bars and liquid living in Japan

Friday, Oct. 23, 2009

This obscure liqueur may save your soul

This isn't a story about Chartreuse, but let's begin there. ...

Friday, Sept. 25, 2009

Tokyo bars toast the sugar cane

Thank God for the Crusades, so to speak. ...

Friday, Sept. 25, 2009

Nixon's chosen cocktail and other things you didn't know about rum

* Captain Morgan was a real person. Sir Henry Morgan was a rather bloodthirsty 17th-century Welshman who blurred the line between privateer and pirate, plundering ships in the Caribbean. ...

Friday, Aug. 28, 2009

Crawling back down Center Gai

My Little Pony and Throbbing Gristle make strange bedfellows. No, not in that way. The plastic horse and a poster of the industrial noiseniks both decorate Shirokuma, a funny little bar on Shibuya's Center Gai. ...

Friday, July 24, 2009

A bar crawl up Center Gai

Shibuya, I once wrote, is the heart of Young Japan, and the street named Center Gai is its throbbing artery. Some people pay handsomely for cliches like that. ...

DRINK FEATURES

Wine, sake and other favorite potables

Friday, Nov. 13, 2009

BY THE GLASS

An early start for Japanese wines

"Please don't drink too much," screeches a man wielding a megaphone, but he's a bit too late because half the genteel crowd are already totally hammered. It's not surprising, really, seeing as there are around 70 wines to sample and ...

Friday, Oct. 30, 2009

There's nothing like a local brew

Once upon a time, all sake was made with locally grown rice. Then came the rise of a particularly reliable strain called Yamada Nishiki, and the scene changed dramatically. Yamada Nishiki, which accounts for nearly 30 percent of Japan's sake ...

Friday, Oct. 9, 2009

BY THE GLASS

Introducing the Californian dream

Swilling an elegant Pinot around your glass, the landscape before you, verdant with vines, undulates in the soft evening light. The little wine you've imbibed sets your senses aglow as you contemplate the cinematic beauty of California's wine country. ...

Friday, Sept. 11, 2009

BY THE GLASS

It's as good as it says on the bottle

Wine shops bear more than a passing resemblance to libraries. The hushed respectful tone of the staff, the way the wines are displayed on floor-to-ceiling wooden shelves with the rarest bottles set high up and only accessible by ladder. And ...

Friday, Aug. 14, 2009

The spiritual side of making wine

Between the cold steel of enormous fermentation tanks and the state-of-the-art equipment in the tasting rooms of today's modern wineries, it's hard to believe that there is any element of the winemaking process that is not governed by the strict ...


Food and drink column archives


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Best Bar None by Jude Brand


Nihonshu by John Gaunter


The Way of Washoku by Rick LaPointe



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