Friday, Nov. 6, 2009
Tempura Uoshin
A masterclass at the counter
Tradition, craftsmanship, and understated refinement. These are attributes expected of any place serving traditional Japanese cuisine of a certain quality. When it comes to tempura, those same values are every bit as important. ...
Friday, Oct. 16, 2009
Tapas Molecular Bar
Elevated dining at a molecular level
Test-tube "caviar," froths and foams and taste-teasing flavor infusions, miracle fruit and desserts "cooked" at super-chilled temperatures. . . . Welcome to the brave new world of contemporary cuisine commonly known as molecular gastronomy. ...
Friday, Oct. 2, 2009
Norabo
Perfectly simple seasonal cuisine
Returning from any trip out of the country, it's always Japanese food that we crave. No need for anything fancy: hand-chopped soba at the neighborhood noodle shop will do us fine, or perhaps a few charcoal-grilled skewers of chicken at ...
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FEATURES
What to eat and where to eat it
Friday, July 31, 2009
Sake returns to its organic roots
The sake world is looking greener as an increasing number of producers invest more time and resources in developing organic lines. In 2004, Niigata-based giant Kikusui attracted attention for opening the Sake Culture Institute, an immaculate facility dedicated to organic ...
Friday, May 29, 2009
Simple, refined French in Ebisu
If you don't have the luxury of an expense account, A ta Gueule, a tiny French hideaway in Ebisu, promises a gourmet experience that won't break the bank. ...
Friday, May 29, 2009
Forget Michelin, it's a Pellegrino
This year's string of accolades hasn't affected the modesty of chef Yoshihiro Narisawa. After earning a star in the 2009 Michelin Guide, Les Creations de Narisawa debuted at no. 20 on San Pellegrino's list of best restaurants in the world. ...
Friday, May 15, 2009
Recommendations from a Japanese cheese expert
Keiko Kubota selected and prepared the cheeses served at the 2008 G8 summit in Hokkaido. A cheese sommelier and the manager of Restaurant Gentil in Shizuoka City, Kubota has written two books on how to become a cheese sommelier and ...
Friday, May 15, 2009
Japan embraces the big cheese
Ask the experts what makes a good cheese, and at some point the conversation is going to get down to grass. After all, cheese comes from milk, and the best milk comes from animals raised on grass. ...
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Friday, Aug. 28, 2009
Crawling back down Center Gai
My Little Pony and Throbbing Gristle make strange bedfellows. No, not in that way. The plastic horse and a poster of the industrial noiseniks both decorate Shirokuma, a funny little bar on Shibuya's Center Gai. ...
Friday, July 24, 2009
A bar crawl up Center Gai
Shibuya, I once wrote, is the heart of Young Japan, and the street named Center Gai is its throbbing artery. Some people pay handsomely for cliches like that. ...
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DRINK FEATURES
Wine, sake and other favorite potables
Friday, Nov. 13, 2009
BY THE GLASS
An early start for Japanese wines
"Please don't drink too much," screeches a man wielding a megaphone, but he's a bit too late because half the genteel crowd are already totally hammered. It's not surprising, really, seeing as there are around 70 wines to sample and ...
Friday, Oct. 30, 2009
There's nothing like a local brew
Once upon a time, all sake was made with locally grown rice. Then came the rise of a particularly reliable strain called Yamada Nishiki, and the scene changed dramatically. Yamada Nishiki, which accounts for nearly 30 percent of Japan's sake ...
Friday, Oct. 9, 2009
BY THE GLASS
Introducing the Californian dream
Swilling an elegant Pinot around your glass, the landscape before you, verdant with vines, undulates in the soft evening light. The little wine you've imbibed sets your senses aglow as you contemplate the cinematic beauty of California's wine country. ...
Friday, Sept. 11, 2009
BY THE GLASS
It's as good as it says on the bottle
Wine shops bear more than a passing resemblance to libraries. The hushed respectful tone of the staff, the way the wines are displayed on floor-to-ceiling wooden shelves with the rarest bottles set high up and only accessible by ladder. And ...
Friday, Aug. 14, 2009
The spiritual side of making wine
Between the cold steel of enormous fermentation tanks and the state-of-the-art equipment in the tasting rooms of today's modern wineries, it's hard to believe that there is any element of the winemaking process that is not governed by the strict ...
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