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TOKYO FOOD FILE

Restaurant reviews by Robbie Swinnerton

Friday, March 5, 2010

A16

Brick Square is hip

Spring may not be here for real just yet, but it's never too early to celebrate the first al fresco lunch of the year. So when last week's unseasonably warm spell arrived we knew exactly where to go — into ...

Friday, March 5, 2010

Butter boutique continues to draw in the crowds at the Marunouchi Brick Square

With two dozen restaurants, bars and cafes over three floors, Marunouchi Brick Square was a hit right from its opening last October. But the biggest buzz and the longest lines have been at one of the smallest shops in the ...

Friday, Feb. 19, 2010

Yoshicho

Stellar yakitori down in Gotanda

The idea of gourmet yakitori is nothing new. There are plenty of restaurants around town where the humble art of skewering and grilling chicken has been elevated to a degree of sophistication. But you don't expect to find it in ...

Friday, Feb. 5, 2010

Kamikozawa-tei

Shabu-shabu in modernist mode

There's no finer way to eat on a chilly winter evening than sitting around a bubbling nabe hot pot. No matter what the ingredients — meat, fish, tofu or vegetables — just cooking and eating from the same communal casserole ...

Friday, Feb. 5, 2010

There's nothing fusty about the Nezu Museum's new cafe

When the Nezu Museum reopened last October, after more than a year of reconstruction, we were among the first to join the lines outside. We were keen to inspect Kengo Kuma's impressive architecture and wanted to view the remarkable bronzes, ...

FEATURES

What to eat and where to eat it

Friday, July 31, 2009

Sake returns to its organic roots

The sake world is looking greener as an increasing number of producers invest more time and resources in developing organic lines. In 2004, Niigata-based giant Kikusui attracted attention for opening the Sake Culture Institute, an immaculate facility dedicated to organic ...

Friday, May 29, 2009

Forget Michelin, it's a Pellegrino

This year's string of accolades hasn't affected the modesty of chef Yoshihiro Narisawa. After earning a star in the 2009 Michelin Guide, Les Creations de Narisawa debuted at no. 20 on San Pellegrino's list of best restaurants in the world. ...

Friday, May 29, 2009

Simple, refined French in Ebisu

If you don't have the luxury of an expense account, A ta Gueule, a tiny French hideaway in Ebisu, promises a gourmet experience that won't break the bank. ...

Friday, May 15, 2009

Japan embraces the big cheese

Ask the experts what makes a good cheese, and at some point the conversation is going to get down to grass. After all, cheese comes from milk, and the best milk comes from animals raised on grass. ...

Friday, May 15, 2009

Recommendations from a Japanese cheese expert

Keiko Kubota selected and prepared the cheeses served at the 2008 G8 summit in Hokkaido. A cheese sommelier and the manager of Restaurant Gentil in Shizuoka City, Kubota has written two books on how to become a cheese sommelier and ...

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LIQUID CULTURE

Good drinks, great bars and liquid living in Japan

Friday, Dec. 25, 2009

Japan's favorite hangover cures

Tis the season to be jolly. And when you've finished being jolly, tis the season to wake up with veisalgia, more popularly known as a hangover. ...

Friday, Nov. 27, 2009

Society's whiskies hit the high notes

I've found a new whisky to love. It's a 26-year-old single malt from Hokkaido's Yoichi distillery. It's got oak and a gentle, sweet smokiness, a touch of leather, cherries, toasted almonds and I'm just making this up now, because after ...

Friday, Oct. 23, 2009

This obscure liqueur may save your soul

This isn't a story about Chartreuse, but let's begin there. ...

Friday, Sept. 25, 2009

Nixon's chosen cocktail and other things you didn't know about rum

* Captain Morgan was a real person. Sir Henry Morgan was a rather bloodthirsty 17th-century Welshman who blurred the line between privateer and pirate, plundering ships in the Caribbean. ...

Friday, Sept. 25, 2009

Tokyo bars toast the sugar cane

Thank God for the Crusades, so to speak. ...

DRINK FEATURES

Wine, sake and other favorite potables

Friday, March 12, 2010

BY THE GLASS

Wine importers keep their cool

A few years ago, I enjoyed a chilled glass of wine while sitting on a cobbled street in the medieval French city of Chinon in the heart of Loire Valley; the wine was from the surrounding vineyards of Samur and ...

Friday, Feb. 26, 2010

A receptacle for the respectable

I ordered a shot of George T. Stagg's fiery Hazmat III in Shot Bar Bourbon, a tiny subterranean bourbon paradise in Ginza, and the bartender served it in a wine glass. I asked why. "For the flavor," he said, and ...

Friday, Feb. 26, 2010

The coupe gave way to the flute, but now it's swansong time for that venerated Champagne vessel

In the early 20th century, when society types in England and the United States pranced around drinking pink Champagne, they loved the coupe. The saucerlike glass showed off the colorful bubbly and came with a naughty, but probably apocryphal, story ...

Friday, Feb. 12, 2010

BY THE GLASS

Fine wines from a complex region

According to the philosopher Isaiah Berlin, great thinkers can be separated into two broad categories: hedgehogs and foxes. While hedgehogs view the world through one single defining idea, foxes embrace the multitude of contradictory experiences that life throws up. ...

Friday, Jan. 29, 2010

Chocolate bars for whisky lovers

A tawny port pairs wonderfully with Stilton. Grand Marnier tastes great on vanilla ice cream. Chianti seems to suit a Margherita pizza. And whisky? Well, that goes with haggis. ...


Food and drink column archives


Vineland by William Campbell


Best Bar None by Jude Brand


Nihonshu by John Gaunter


The Way of Washoku by Rick LaPointe



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