It seems implausible these days but, until 150 years ago or so, Japan was essentially a vegetarian country. Certainly, river fish were caught, seafood was eaten by people on the coast and hunting was part of life for those living in the inhospitable interior. But the Buddhist tenets against taking life were officially embraced in Japan for over 1,000 years.
That long tradition found its pinnacle of expression in shojin ryori (Buddhist temple cooking), whose influence still permeates every aspect of Japanese cuisine: Its intense focus on the changing seasons, reflected in ingredients and presentation; the ingenuity in preparing plants from land and ocean in myriad ways; and the exquisite attention to detail on the plate and in the kitchen.
All these have arisen from the same profound attitude — a strong appreciation for the rich and varied bounty of the vegetable kingdom. It is this deeply ingrained approach to eating and living that Elizabeth Andoh introduces so beautifully in her latest cookbook, "Kansha: Celebrating Japan's Vegan and Vegetarian Traditions."