One of the Food File’s all-time favorite settings for breakfast in Japan — lunch and dinner, too — has to be bills , Aussie chef Bill Granger’s stylish beachfront cafe/restaurant on the Kamakura coast. The good news is that there’s now a second branch, and it’s a lot more convenient if you’re living or working in Yokohama, or just visiting for the day.
Once again, he has a prime waterfront location, this time in the atmospheric, century-old Red Brick Warehouses. With a view out onto the lapping harbor, the feel is very Sydney casual-chic. The main dining room is rather plusher than at the original Shichirigahama branch, with the added bonus of a spacious terrace. Currently it’s still enclosed, but as soon as the weather permits this will be open to allow very pleasant al fresco eating.
If you’re familiar with the menu at the original bills there will be few surprises. All of Granger’s signature dishes are present and correct, including ricotta pancakes, sweet corn fritters, wagyu burgers and the delectable organic scrambled eggs that first put his name on the map. Add to that list a Yokohama original — Berry Berry Pancakes, served with a selection of red soft fruits and a generous patty of berry-infused butter.
However, just because it’s bigger and closer to the city, that doesn’t mean it will be any easier to get a table. Even in last weekend’s unseasonably chilly weather, there were long waits. Once the word spreads, the lines will likely stretch around the block. So get there early in the morning: You know at least they’ll have breakfast waiting for you.
bills Yokohama Aka-renga Soko, Red Brick Warehouse Building #2, 1-1-2 Shinko, Naka-ku, Yokohama-shi, Kanagawa-ken; (045) 650-1266; nearest station: Bashamichi (Minato-mirai Line); Open 9 a.m.-11 p.m. (last food order 10 p.m.); bills-jp.net