No restaurants in Tokyo have done more to shape the aesthetic of contemporary Japanese dining than the Shunju group. Over the past 20 years, their trademark synthesis of cutting-edge design -- the work of Shunju's founder and creative genius, Takashi Sugimoto -- with a cosmopolitan take on traditional cooking techniques has become the default standard for modern washoku.

From the very first branch in 1986, a chic but modestly sized restaurant-bar in Mishuku (Setagaya-ku), the Shunju look has grown and evolved slowly, organically. Each new operation has been different, with its own defining character and decor, reflecting the location and clientele. Each bears the unmistakable imprint of Sugimoto's flair.

As longtime fans, both of the look and the food, we were intrigued to hear that the latest Shunju had opened at the beginning of September in Hibiya. We were curious to see how Sugimoto's designs would fit this setting, right across from the venerable Imperial Hotel and next door to the Takarazuka Theater.