Tourist hordes descend upon Kyoto's geisha districts, and while some visitors catch a glimpse of a maiko (apprentice geisha) hurrying to an elite restaurant, very few will ever meet one for private entertainment. Even Kyoto residents will commiserate, repeating the phrase often heard in the city's exclusive restaurants: "Ichigen-san, okotowari" — "New customer, no admittance."
So I thought too, until I met Chris Rowthorn, longtime Kyoto resident and head writer for Lonely Planet's Japan and Kyoto guidebooks.
"It's not just an issue of having enough money," he said, explaining why even wealthy clients are turned away without an introduction. "It's an issue of trust."