Now that summer is finally past its punishing prime, it's time for the beach. September is the finest season down on the Shonan waterfront: The sun and water are still plenty warm enough; the teenybopper crowds have dissipated; and the rip-off beach houses have packed up and gone, taking their dubious yaki-soba and construction company connections with them.
And here's one more compelling reason to head down to the Kamakura Riviera: It's a whole lot easier at this time of year to book a table at Taverna Rondino, our favorite ristorante, bar none, on the entire coast. Remarkably, this old favorite has been going almost 20 years now; even more amazing, it still does everything just as well as ever.
Here's what makes it so special. First there's that prime location overlooking Shichirigahama beach and across the sea to Izu. It's got a great terrace (if you can screen out the sight and sound of the busy coastal highway in front). Access is easy by road or rail, whether from Kamakura or Enoshima. It consistently produces excellent cucina that rivals any in the prefecture -- and many of Tokyo's better known names as well. But we like Rondino best because it combines its expertise with a refreshing absence of formalities.