Where East Met West: Discovering Yamagata's Unique Former Saiseikan Hospital
On a sunny day, as you walk down a tree-lined path in Kajo Park, a striking building with reddish walls and a blue fence suddenly appears, instantly evoking a sense of Europe. At first glance its use may not be obvious, but this remarkable structure, the Kyu-Saiseikan (旧済生館), former Saiseikan, was once a central hospital in Yamagata City. It now serves as a Yamagata City Local History Museum. The name “Saiseikan” (済生館) means “building that saves lives,” reflecting its original function as a hospital and medical school.
Structure of the Building:
Stepping inside, you’re greeted by the unique octagonal layout of the first floor. Your gaze is drawn inward to a serene Zen garden, a peaceful oasis at the heart of the building. Imagine the original purpose of the surrounding rooms—examination rooms and waiting areas—now transformed into spaces showcasing historical exhibits centered around its past as a leading hospital. Notice the balcony pillars: their design, reminiscent of Greek Doric columns rather than traditional Japanese posts, hints at the building’s blended heritage. Climbing the stairs to the second floor reveals a dramatic shift in atmosphere. Here, a spacious, sixteen-sided hall opens before you, a place where ceremonies and lectures once resonated. Also highlighted here are the 3 treasures of Saiseikan- the original calligraphy of the name, an oil painting of Hippocrates, and groundbreaking medical texts that were some of the first to be translated into Japanese. Can you find them all?
A Peculiar Architectural Style:
The building’s architectural style defies easy categorization within traditional European forms. This reflects the rapid Westernization of Japan following the Meiji Restoration. Yamagata Prefecture was no exception. The first prefectural governor and an architect traveled to Tokyo and Yokohama, centers of Westernization, to study Western architecture. Upon his return, the governor commissioned local carpenters, skilled in Japanese techniques but largely unfamiliar with European styles, to build the hospital. The result is a fascinating blend of Japanese, European, and even a touch of Chinese architectural influences. This architectural style, a mixture of multiple styles, appeared only in the early Meiji period, shortly before genuine European styles became widespread. Construction began in February 1878 and was completed in September of that year.
Closer examination of the building reveals numerous European details. Above the doors, vibrantly colored stained glass catches the eye. Mass-produced glass was not yet common in Japan, so the windows are composed of many smaller pieces. The winding staircase connecting the second and third floors (the third floor is not open to the public) further exemplifies this fusion of styles, incorporating traditional Japanese arabesque patterns. The iconic fences along the courtyard and stairs were made using a pottery wheel typically employed to create kokeshi dolls, one of Yamagata City’s traditional crafts. Along with kokeshi doll artisans, Buddhist altar craftsmen and other woodworkers contributed specialized embellishments to the architecture. Even some components, such as hinges—not widely used in Japan at the time—were imported from Germany. Some of these original pieces and their details are on display in the 2nd floor hall.
Incorporating European Medical Practices:
As part of Japan’s Westernization, the adoption of European medical practices was crucial. To facilitate this, the governor invited Dr. Albrecht von Roretz, an Austrian physician, from Kanazawa to head the hospital and its medical school. For the first time in the region, he installed German-made medical equipment and used German medicines. Despite a stay of less than two years, Dr. von Roretz significantly contributed to training young doctors and improving public health in the region. His accomplishments established the hospital as a center of Western medicine in the Tohoku region of Japan. His reputation as a doctor spread quickly, attracting numerous patients from around the region.
Just a few minutes’ walk from city center, you can experience extraordinary architecture that makes you feel like you’re in Europe. As a powerful symbol of the cultural exchange between Europe and Japan during the Meiji period, the building, though no longer a hospital, continues to serve as a vital link, connecting people from Japan and around the world.
Basic Information:
Location: A 15-minute walk from Yamagata Station, accessible by a 2.5-hour Shinkansen ride from Tokyo Station.
Admission: Free
Hours: 9:00 AM – 4:30 PM (Closed December 29th – January 3rd)
(Information current at the time of writing)
