Abrazo a la Oaxaquena

The mole pipian is made with pumpkin seeds and tomatillos, and mole almendrado has a base of almonds. But most impressive of the lot is the classic mole negro that he pours over his pan-fried chicken. Black and glistening, the dominant flavor is dark savory chocolate, just the way it should be. In terms of chili heat, it's not more than mildly tongue-tingling, but the combination of other flavors -- Kato says he blends in more than 20 spices -- is rich and satisfying on the palate.