There are lots of good reasons for visiting Kamakura. It has temples, shrines and walks in the hills. You can windsurf, laze on the beach or just enjoy that rare sensation of having escaped the megalopolis. But dining out rarely comes high on the list.

This historic city has never been a gourmet destination. And that's surprising, given the resources right on its doorstep. It has excellent seafood, landed daily from Sagami Bay, and a vegetable market of such quality that chefs drive down from Tokyo each morning to snap up the local produce.

Kamakura is a tourist town and falls silent once the day trippers have headed home. It has never developed its own cuisine or delicacies. There are numerous noodle counters and more than a few fancy French restaurants, but little in the way of sushi or traditional cuisine.