As the great ship surges into Tokyo Bay I'm on the prow, hair streaming in the wind, like Kate Winslet in "Titanic." Wooded crags come into view, dotted with buildings and the odd factory chimney. The buildings are modern, not wooden houses, but the crags are still much the same as Commodore Matthew Perry must have seen when he sailed with his "Black Ships" toward what was then Edo Bay in 1853.
Three hours later I'm sailing under Rainbow Bridge and glimpsing the high rises of Tokyo. As the ship sweeps in to dock at Harumi Pier, sirens blast and a brass band on the quay strikes up a melody to greet us.
I'd never have guessed how thrilling sea travel could be or that Japan would look so different when seen from the ocean. I'd imagined messing around on the docks but I'd never pictured myself standing on the 12th deck, looking down on the crew as they hoist the ropes into place.