Raw ingredients and a boil-it-yourself approach are the saving graces of the otherwise meat-oriented staples of nabe (hot pot). Hinabe is a Chinese-style version (sort-of — the history is complicated) that can be found all over Japan, and its multiple broths are the perfect steamy concoction for a chilly fall evening.

Hinabe is a dip-as-you go soup dish best enjoyed with company. Unlike other hot pot styles that feature one shared dish in the center of the table with everything mixed together, a hinabe pot is often divided into two or three partitions with different soup bases in each. Being the odd vegetarian among my friends, this proves beneficial. We agree that one section will be for vegetables only, and in the other parts they are free to mix in their meat choices.

There is usually one side of the pot reserved for a very spicy mix, one for a milder, milkier soup and, depending on the restaurant, a third partition for yet another flavor. Mix the soups in your own bowl to your liking as you eat the freshly boiled morsels therein.