In Tokyo, when the going gets hot, the cool go to Hawaii, or flee to mountain resorts. Others plunk down their yen for a dip in a hotel or amusement-park pool. The rest of us steam in the stupefying humidity and hope our flip-flops don't fuse to the tarmac. Surely there's some inexpensive, convenient, and not-ridiculously-crowded relief available?

Surfing satellite images on Google Earth, I've spotted what looks like an underwater tennis court near Nishi Kasai. I hop on the Tozai subway line to Edogawa Ward to check it out.

From the south exit of the station, I follow a gaggle of moms and toddlers toting plastic ring floats, cheered by the notion that we are headed to the same destination. We're not, I discover.