HUA HIN, Thailand -- Like any town in Thailand, Hua Hin has its share of stray dogs, especially near the temple grounds. In this proud provincial town of sandy beaches, sea breezes and clean streets, however, even the stray mutts look healthier.

Remarkably diverse and cosmopolitan for a compact town of some 40,000 people, Hua Hin is located in the province of Prajuab Kirikan, on a hilly peninsula shared with its taciturn neighbor, Myanmar.

The town has enjoyed the reputation of being a classy beach town since the 1920s, when King Rama VI left his mark with a gingerbread-house railway station and a German-inspired royal residence. Even today, the cultural link with Germany is strong, thanks to endless busloads of German sun-worshippers, who can order from German menus at guesthouses run by Germans and market-savvy Thais.