In order to write an article about renowned Zen master Tanchu Terayama's Hitsuzendo calligraphy exhibition, I was offered the rare opportunity to visit his mountain retreat in Ibaraki Prefecture to participate in a workshop with Terayama himself. I first got a call from Terayama's most dedicated student, Sarah Moate, an Oxford art history graduate from Britain and the only foreigner displaying work in the exhibition, who suggested I attend one of her lessons as an introduction to Terayama's teachings.
Like the master, she holds an inka (certificate of enlightenment), and is qualified to teach Zen calligraphy.
I'm not an 8 a.m. Saturday morning kind of learner, but was consoled by the thrilling prospect of being instructed in the subtle art of shodo -- brushwork kanji. The next morning, before getting anywhere near paper and a brush, I found myself with two other students barefoot in the grass, following Moate as she led us through exercises where we stretched, shouted and gasped.