On bleak Scottish moors and soft, mossy hills, the oldest and grandest theme park in the world rose on Aug. 12. The vast and sprawling sporting estates that possess most of Scotland's surface thrummed with the frantically beating wings of grouse and echo to the gunshot, bravo and jolly well done. The annual game-bird cannonball run has begun. Do creatures that survive to breed early next spring hold a secret ceremony down among the bracken to celebrate their escape?