Review excerpt: The line outside Hayashi is rarely less than 30 minutes long. Once seated, prepare to meditate some more: There is little to look at and nothing to hear but the muffled sound of satisfied slurping. The bowl, when it arrives, is always worth ...

Review excerpt: Start with a plate of mixed matzah, Uekawa’s version of Lebanese mezze. Follow up with falafels or Turkish spring rolls stuffed with minced lamb. Don’t overlook the Tunisian brik a l’oeuf, egg mixed with tuna, potato and cheese, deep-fried in triangles of ...

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