In the hunt for vegetarian-friendly fare in Japan, it's easy to forget that what often makes the dish is not the main ingredient but the seasoning.

I was reminded of this on a recent shinkansen ride. With 10 minutes to board my train, and it being dinner time, I picked up a few items to eat along the way. Steering clear of the many bento (boxed lunch) stands (the search for the elusive vegetarian bento is one I'll have to save for another time), I found some skewered vegetables behind one glass case. Easy enough, I ordered some potatoes, brussels sprouts, bamboo and a yellow tofu-looking thing (which I later found out was not tofu but namafu, or wheat starch).

Settled in my seat, I unwrapped the plastic containers, finding also two unassuming little packets of seasoning and one pouch of sauce. Being a flavor fiend, without hesitation I ripped open the packets and sprinkled gratuitously. As I bit into the first grilled potato, however, I stopped. This was possibly the most delicious bite of spud I'd ever had in my life.