Some "old hands" are lamenting what they see as the passing of Asan Tole, that magical path through old Kathmandu where it seems Kipling's "the wildest dreams of Kew" really do come true.
The old hands moan about concrete replacing handmade bricks and multinational logos replacing exotic sculpture. Of course, there is truth to these complaints. Even in the three years since my last visit, there has been a significant metamorphosis from character-filled old brick to bland concrete.
The old brick, however, has still not disappeared. The great bronze lions still snarl at the crowds passing the temple entrance they have guarded all these years, and the bazaar swirling around remains one of the most exotic and exuberant you'll find anywhere. Some homes have lovingly retained their old character; the owners have even restored the centuries-old, elaborately carved windows.