Milk — liquid innocence. If milk lets you down, what won't? It looks healthy, tastes healthy — surely it is healthy? Appearances, we know, are deceiving; still, this particular illusion dies hard.

Whose earliest childhood memories do not include a parent admonishing, "Drink your milk so you'll grow up big and strong!" Who, having grown (big and strong or not) to parenthood, did not in all innocence lead their own children similarly astray?

The Swedish research claiming to debunk the milk myth has been questioned, so maybe it's all a bad dream after all. One voluble skeptic is Taku Eto, a former farm ministry vice-minister who tells Shukan Post magazine, "I've been drinking milk since I was a kid; I'm 181 cm tall ... I do karate and play baseball and have never broken a bone in my life."