Much like Pavlov's poor, sad, salivating dogs, we can never pass a restaurant without going inside if there's a paella pan, some empty sherry bottles and a red-and-yellow flag outside. This weakness for Spanish food often results in disappointment: mediocre tapas and the music of The Gypsy Kings can dull the enjoyment of even the best sherry. Just sometimes, though, we strike lucky when we least expect it.
Casa Paradis Barcelona is tucked away in a basement on the lesser-trodden outer fringes of Shibuya. It's a small place, with whitewash and brickwork walls adorned with a clutter of Iberian mementos and photos. Unpretentious this setting might be, but the cooking of owner-chef Masanori Iwasaki is worthy of much more upscale surroundings.
A quiet man who shuns chefs' whites in favor of a chic, gray-blue dress shirt, Iwasaki understands the robust flavors of Spain, especially those of the Catalan coast where he used to live and work. But he is also blessed with a delicacy of touch and taste that would not be out of place in restaurants with far grander pretensions.