Now that the monthlong soccer carnival has samba'd off stage, it's safe to venture back into the heartland of Roppongi again. This is highly welcome, as there are several places that we've been looking forward to trying out -- and top of the list is Hisio, with its newly opened oyster bar.

You'll find it right in the heart of Roppongi's pleasure zone, across from Velfarre and round the corner from One-Eyed Jack. Indeed, the restaurant shares its basement premises with a club that lays on evening entertainment for men. But it's very sophisticated, we are assured, and everything is in the finest of taste -- just like dinner at Hisio, in fact.

Having made your way past the eye-catching and disturbingly life-like mannequins at street level and down a flight of concrete steps, you are ushered through a plush reception area and into the oyster bar. It's a convivial space, brightly lit but intimate in scale, with a couple of tables, some counter seats and booths at the back for those occasions when privacy is paramount.