A recent visit to the suburb of Koenji reminded me of my JET program orientation in Kansai; I visited a temple, learned some outlandish local customs, ate sushi, and was shown around a vintage toy store with cosmic price tags.

Except on this occasion, I wasn't at the mercy of a cackling harpy from the village board of education.

Instead, my guide for the day was 27-year-old Fujiko Ooshima, an amiable telephone operator.