From his 14th floor office window, Tsunenari Tokugawa can almost see the exact spot where his ancestors settled four centuries ago. It's just a few blocks away -- but it might as well be in another universe.

Banished from power more than a century ago, the Tokugawa clan no longer runs Japan. Now 63, Tsunenari Tokugawa has settled into semiretirement, dividing his time between being a corporate adviser to a shipping firm and running a foundation to preserve his family's treasure trove of armor, swords and historical documents.

The clan's greatest legacy is what lies outside the window of this great-grandson of the last shogun -- the sprawling, moat-encircled castle grounds now occupied by Emperor Akihito, and around it the whole city of Tokyo, which this year celebrates its 400th year since the Tokugawa family made it the capital.