It was a coincidence that on the same day we had a reservation for Iwasaki, a small family-run restaurant west of Kyoto's Municipal Office, the Iwasaki's were quietly marking a milestone: the restaurant's 10-year anniversary.

Iwasaki has retained a Michelin star every year since 2012, and last month Tabelog, the restaurant listing and reviews website, included it in its list of Japan's best restaurants, but neither the accolades nor the anniversary were being celebrated. Modesty was to the fore, except perhaps in the cooking, where there were flashes of creativity in nearly every dish.

Two things to note about Iwasaki: First, it's on the wee side of small. The L-shaped counter seats six, and past the kitchen at the back there's a private room that seats another five diners. Needless to say, getting a booking can be tricky.