In 2000, Harvard political scientist Robert D. Putnam wrote "Bowling Alone," a book about the decline of community and rise of individualism in the U.S. I thought about the title of that book over lunch at Rikichi — indeed there was plenty of room for thinking. Not only was I the only diner, but chef and owner Shuichi Hiraoka was working by himself. It's how he prefers things in his little kappo (counter-style restaurant), tucked away in the back alleys of Gion.

Hiraoka has been preparing simple, traditional Japanese food here since he opened Rikichi more than 30 years ago. And yes, he has a Michelin star, but that's not the apex of his achievements. Hiraoka is a national bowling champion, and has a handful of awards to prove it. In fact, he has been bowling for so long that the tops of his fingers are slightly bent from more than 50 years of gripping bowling balls. He may bowl and cook alone, but that's only half the story.

The paving stones inside his restaurant were still wet from their morning scrub when I sat down for an omakase (chef's choice) lunch. Rikichi's narrow but homely interior doesn't deviate much from the standard kappo, with its well-worn wooden surfaces and austere atmosphere. However, there is one area where Hiraoka veers off track: Each serving comes with hardly a word of explanation. But don't be shy in asking questions, for as well as being a father, chef and bowling champion, Hiraoka is also a gentleman. He accommodates queries and taste preferences.