I've been aware of shōjin ryōri (traditional vegetarian Buddhist cuisine) for some time. I've had in my mind the image of a Buddhist practitioner painstakingly preparing the seasonal vegetarian dishes, mindful of each ingredient. And from time to time I have vaguely recalled that if I wanted to try it I could do so at a handful of temples around Japan.

But never being one for planning, it was only during a spontaneous stroll through Kyoto that I thought, "Right! I'm going to try shōjin ryōri at once, this evening, before heading back to Tokyo!"

My brilliant idea was almost thwarted after not one, not two, but three places had either already closed for the day (it was 4 p.m.) or would only accept reservations at least one or two days in advance.