Anyone with the nose, the nous and the drive to become a certified sommelier has our respect. But to gain that certification in Italy — in Italian, when your native tongue is Japanese . . . That demands the greatest admiration.
Wataru Takeishi did that and more. He returned to Tokyo not just with a knowledge and passion for fine Italian wines but with the desire to present them with cuisine to match. The vehicle for this is Incanto, his stylish little osteria close to the Tengenji Crossing in Hiroo.
Like so many excellent restaurants in this city, Incanto is polished and discreet, with no sign at street level to indicate its existence — let alone that it's one of the best Italian places in the neighborhood. Open for three years now, it's also become one of our firm favorites.