One of Tokyo's unique pleasures is being able to eat out in restaurants that are no bigger -- and often considerably smaller -- than your own living room. There are thousands of places around the city with kitchens the size of closets and counters that seat less than a dozen, but which nonetheless serve up meals of remarkable complexity.
The wonderful thing about this style of dining is that it's intrinsically informal. Even at the plushest kappo-style ryoriya, there is a depth of interaction and spontaneity that is lost when the chef remains aloof in the inner sanctum of his kitchen. And this concept is every bit as successful when translated to Western cuisines -- especially when the setting is as simple, chic and friendly as at Restaurant t.r.
The set-up is typical of so many of Tokyo's hole-in-the-wall eateries: a single, L-shaped, nine-chair counter; a small table for four off to one side; an open kitchen at the back; and the cheerful, industrious husband-and-wife team who between them run everything.