Christmas was once a lonely business for an expat in Japan. With no holiday, no family and everyone who could manage it having already left town, it was downright dismal -- even for a seasoned Japan-hand.

Then the pub boom landed and spread good cheer with excellent draft beer. The British-style stand-and-lean succeeded where the German beer hall had failed by offering us -- all of us: young or old, single or married, rich or poor -- a casual place to meet, with cheap eats.

Ironically, Christmas is virtually the only day that pubs are closed in the West, but it isn't a national holiday in Japan and, be it ever so humble, a pub is as close to home as many of us can get.