The seaside town of San Sebastian, in Spain's Basque Country, is well known as a crucible of culinary experimentation. It's a town where bars offering pinchos (small snacks) groan under the weight of vast spreads of braised beef cheek, hake throats laced with shouty salsa verde and blood puddings spiked with apple and raisins. A place where dangling bellota hams perfume the air with acorns and where bills can be tallied up in shirt stains just as well as they can in euros.