Gifting, and therefore shopping for gifts, seems part of the gestalt of winter. In Tokyo, though, retail wonderlands tend to be packed and pricey, full of ersatz Christmas music, harried customers and long lines. I opt instead for a low-key commercial street near Sugamo Station in Toshima Ward, known as Jizo-dori. Sugamo is often referred to as "Granny's Harajuku," and since I've got some elders on my list, I head there hoping to find a few age-appropriate presents.