Sushi-bun is a classic hole-in-the-wall operation, with barely room for a dozen to perch elbow-to-elbow on stools along the narrow counter. Isogai keeps everything spotlessly clean, though, and needless to say his fish is of the best quality -- it could hardly get much ...

Owner-chef Yoshinobu Yamada hails from a family of Tsukiji fish merchants. After years learning his metier and polishing the full gamut of culinary skills at such varied operations as Kihachi, Azabu Changjiang and the late (and bemourned by many) Rellenos, he has returned to ...

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