Review excerpt: The line-up at Sumikura changes continuously, but it is usually a broad sweep of the Japanese cooking canon: sashimi, tempura and simmered vegetables.

The complexity is compounded by the fact that Ryuheisoba makes several different noodles by ingredient. My heart (or stomach) wanted to go with kamo (duck) soba, but I ordered Ryuhei soba, the house dish, served in a beautiful handmade bowl. Two dumplings floated atop ...