It's certainly not the sort of place you'd enter on a whim. And even if you did, you'd be turned away, as it's invariably full. If you like the intricacy of high-end Japanese cuisine but in a relaxed setting, then it's well worth picking ...

It also does several excellent varieties of poke, a salad of raw, marinated seafood and chopped vegetables. But the restaurant's strongest point is its lively selection of daily specials that keeps it steps ahead of Tokyo's one-trick-wonder Hawaiian joints.

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