Kohaku

In the five years since opening, Koizumi has developed his own take on the kaiseki tradition of leisurely, multicourse meals. He has also forged an identity that is distinct from his longtime mentor, Hideki Ishikawa, whose eponymous restaurant was at this address before moving ...

Kagurazaka Girogiro

The guy at the front, the head chef, is called Tara-chan (literally, "Codfish"). His second in command is Katsuo-chan ("Bonito"). Why have they adopted stage names? Because at GiroGiro, dinner is as much a performance as a culinary art. Make no mistake, though: The ...

Kyorakutei

All self-respecting soba restaurants offer tempura. Few do so with as much finesse as you find here. Ask for the seasonal tempura plate and you will first be served a couple of chi-ayu (young sweet fish), which moments earlier were swimming in a small ...

Kamozou

This is absolutely as you would expect, since Kamozou is the third in the growing stable of sake-specialist taverns run by Noriharu Nozaki — among them the self-named Nozaki in Shinbashi. Not that you will find him behind the counter at Kamozou these days. If ...

Martiniburger

Portions are ample, closer to what you'd expect in the Big Apple than we're used to here in Tokyo. Order the meat loaf, for example, and you get two very hefty slices of melt-in-the-mouth meat moistened with a savory mushroom gravy, and salad and ...

Maison de la Bourgogne

These days the menu pays only cursory homage to its namesake region. Besides Burgundian classics, such as Coq au Vin or boeuf Bourguignon, you are just as likely to find Alsace-style choucroute (sauerkraut) or Provencal pissaladiere (thin pizza laden with anchovy and black olives). ...

Seigetsu

Inevitably, your eyes will be drawn to the grill pit at the far end of the kitchen -- safely screened behind see-through plexiglass to avert any wayward sparks. Here, the resident grillmeister tends to his cuts of fish, chicken and vegetables. Instead of grilling ...

Le Train Bleu Iwatocho

Shoehorned into a space that would be considered cramped even for a ramen shop -- you literally have to squeeze sideways to get to the back -- it can seat precisely 13 customers at the counter and four more at a shelf-like table wedged ...

Ristorante Lastricato

What sets it apart from most other middle-range Italian eateries, though, is chef Masakazu Hasumi's massive enthusiasm for vegetables. An energetic man not long out of his 20s, he loads his menu with them, from the opening appetizers and colorful antipasti through to his ...

Tribes

In terms of food, Africa still remains an unknown continent for most people -- with the exception of the distinctive and delicious cuisine of the Maghreb. Wisely, Ishikawa has understood that accessibility is more important than authenticity, and he has worked with his chefs ...