Review excerpt: Front and center at Gomachu are a scoop of kin-gomadofu, made from roasted golden sesame seeds, and, in a separate dish, a light coffee-colored scoop made with a soba noodle base and black sesame seeds and topped with roasted nuts.

Review excerpt: The Fuchidaka bento lunch (¥3,000) at Ajiro, which changes in accordance with the seasons, opened with a briny, cold sake that acts as a palette cleanser. This was accompanied by goma-dofu (sesame tofu) topped with a perfectly sculpted mound of grated ginger ...

It's not just that owner-chef Shinichi Araki has a hotline to the best and freshest in nearby Tsukiji market. He understands exactly what's at the peak of its season, and how to prepare it.

The top-of-the-line item is Shokkan's self-described "famous seafood paella." This is cooked in a wide earthenware donabe casserole, and comes laden with generous amounts of salmon and its roe, clams, mussels and small, pink sakura-ebi shrimps. Just as you'd get in Spain, the rice ...

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