If you are sitting at the counter that overlooks the cramped, bustling open kitchen, you will notice that the xiaolongbao (steamed soup dumplings) are all made fresh to order. So are the long, cigar-like spring rolls, which are stuffed with shrimp, scallop and squid, ...

Like Din Tai Fung, the xiao long bao here have thin skins and an elegant, tear-drip droop when removed from their bamboo steamer basket nest. However, the soup has more of a soy sauce taste.

The XLB at DTF (are you following all the lingo?) are famous for having really thin skin. It is impressive: When you pick up the delicate dumpling from its top knot with your chopsticks it sags under the weight of the meat and soup ...

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