Quienquiera is an evening space, for quiet communion over a drink or three. Rather than a place for dining out, it is more a modern incarnation of the kind of izakaya where you snack as you imbibe, and where conversation is the main lubricant.

Unlike the upmarket gourmet lounges of Aoyama and Roppongi, Maimon gives the concept a contemporary Japanese twist, matching its mollusks not with caviar and champagne but with yakitori and sake.

The menu is a mix of Japanese and Western. There's a small array of obanzai (prepared side dishes) on the counter. Vegetables, fish or meat are cooked over a charcoal grill. Daily specials are chalked on the wall by the door, and you can ...

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