Kaiserhof does a number of German classics, such as eisbein (pickled ham hock), spatzle (pasta-like dumplings) and a whole lot of wurst (sausages). The latter are served on hot cast-iron pans with sauerkraut, flavored -- appropriately -- with caraway seeds. There's apfelstrudel (apple strudel) ...

The menu at Zum Bierhof isn't as extensive or as fancy as at Kaiserhof, but you can get currywurst (and it's cheaper, at ¥1,029). Both Kaiserhof and Zum Bierhof serve beer from Hofbrauhaus, Munich's famous 400-year-old beer hall (though at a hefty mark-up).

Konig is steps from Inokashira Park and also does other picnic-ready items such as grilled sausages and leberkase ("liver cheese") sandwiches; there is also a fridge full of German beers.

On the subject of sausage, another German friend recommended Chozumeya Kamakura, a takeaway counter that does a brisk trade in hot-off-the-grill handmade sausages.

Linde has a truly impressive selection, including such hearty staples as roggenvollkornbrot (100-percent rye bread) and muslibrot (bread stuffed with oats, seeds and dried fruit -- just like muesli baked into bread) and lighter confections, like Berliner (jelly donuts).

Aurora Lounge, located on the 45th floor of the Keio Plaza Hotel in Shinjuku, is one of the most non-drinker friendly places in Tokyo. Its 45 Refresh! Non Alcohol Cocktail menu has as many cocktails as floors that the lounge is from the ground.

Incredible handmade soba. I had kamojiru soba, a bowl of sauteed duck served with noodles thin enough to thread through the eye of a needle, and topped with sansho peppers; this is food approaching edible art.

At Hanakujira the person to watch is the cook holding the tongs; like a musical conductor he sets the rhythm and the tone of the restaurant, and it is from his vat that all good things come. Oden is a year-round food, but best ...

Besides being admirably affordable -- this neighborhood has long been the domain of students and low-status salarymen -- the cooking is assured and the menu remarkably adventurous.

The specialties at Bettei are Gin-no-kamo, a variety of Barbary duck raised in Aomori Prefecture; and fresh vegetables grown in the market gardens of Kamakura on the Shonan (Kanagawa) coast just south of Tokyo. Put the two together and you're all primed for one ...

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