A discotheque hidden among the back alleys of eastern Seoul is packed with hundreds of gray-haired couples on a Monday afternoon, dancing to local hits from the 1960s in a basketball court-size hall.

Kim Sa-gyu, 85, calls it his "playground."

"What else would I do all day? My family is busy with work. I hate going to senior centers cause all they do there is smoking," said Kim, wearing a beret as he sat on a bench at the edge of a dance floor decorated with fairy lights and mirror balls.