Amid the volcanic peaks and hot springs of southern Japan, something fishy is going on: caviar.
And not just any caviar. This roe — kilogram upon kilogram of it — is the result of an aquaculture experiment that began with sturgeon imported from the Soviet Union three decades ago.
Now, for the first time, the eggs prized as a delicacy around the world are about to be shipped overseas to compete with the Russian and Iranian caviar that dominate the high-end market.