From kitchen hand to running a three-Michelin-star restaurant, Shinobu Namae has seen restaurant kitchens from all levels and every angle. These days, he is best known for the modern French cuisine served at Tokyo’s swish L’Effervescence, which continues to win fans and plaudits alike.

Namae also researches ecosystems and studies food-distribution systems, traveling extensively to forge connections and address food conferences. Now he has won further international recognition: This past week he was announced as the winner of the prestigious Icon Award, part of the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023 celebrations.

The title “icon” doesn’t mean Namae has suddenly become an elder statesman of Japan’s restaurant scene. On the contrary, the chef sat down with The Japan Times earlier this week, on the eve of his 50th birthday, to look back on a career that got off to an unconventional start — and to affirm to us that he is just getting going.