One of the most intriguing restaurant openings at the end of last year passed under the radar of many Tokyo gastronomes. That was due in part to timing: In November, the pandemic still had many people leery about eating out. But the other reason for the low-key start is that Sota Atsumi, the chef in charge, is much better known in Paris than in Tokyo.

That’s hardly surprising. Atsumi has lived in France almost 20 years now and has never run a restaurant in his homeland. Although he still has no plans to move back — he has his Michelin-starred restaurant, Maison, to take care of in Paris — in November, Atsumi unveiled his first venture in Japan.

Unable to view this article?

This could be due to a conflict with your ad-blocking or security software.

Please add japantimes.co.jp and piano.io to your list of allowed sites.

If this does not resolve the issue or you are unable to add the domains to your allowlist, please see out this support page.

We humbly apologize for the inconvenience.

In a time of both misinformation and too much information, quality journalism is more crucial than ever.
By subscribing, you can help us get the story right.