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Azuki to Kouri. “Red Beans and Ice.” Whichever language you prefer, the name of Tokyo’s newest, hottest dessert counter evokes one of Japan’s classic summertime treats.

Azuki beans have been eaten in Japan in sweetened form since ancient times. Meanwhile, ice has been used in desserts for almost as long, most famously to make kakigōri, the shaved ice that is a national staple in the enervating heat and humidity of mid-summer.

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