Perched on the waterfront of the Shimabara Peninsula, looking out across the placid waters of the Ariake Sea to the mountains of the Kyushu mainland in the distance, Pesceco occupies a location that is little short of idyllic. It is this setting that inspires and manifests in the creative, seafood-based cuisine of chef Takahiro Inoue.

With no visible street sign, the restaurant looks anonymous, inscrutable. But you’ll know you’ve arrived once you see the compact, low-slung, freestanding building, its impeccable blue-gray facade bisected by a single horizontal window.

Even in Tokyo, this is architecture that would catch the eye. Here in this far-flung corner of Nagasaki Prefecture, it is a powerful statement of intent, especially in a low-key regional city with such an ingrained sense of history as Shimabara.