Shiitake mushrooms add distinctive flavor to this punchy vegetarian pate. The recipe is endlessly customizable, and is a great way to familiarize oneself with what American chef Samin Nosrat describes as the four elements of good cooking — salt, fat, acid, heat — and understanding what role each ingredient plays.

The saltiness and umami come from salt, mushroom bouillon and grated Parmesan, but these can easily be swapped for stock cubes, fish sauce or Maggi seasoning. White wine and lemon juice provide acidity, but you could try sake or even olive brine, and finish with rice vinegar. Use butter in place of olive oil; stir in cream cheese instead of almonds for a richer, creamier pate. Try chili flakes or curry powder instead of pepper. You can even, if you want, use a mix of mushrooms instead of shiitake.

The only stipulation? Don’t use ready-grated Parmesan. Instead, boost the umami by substituting a different ingredient.