It's an excellent sign when the first sight that greets you at a restaurant is a gleaming refrigerator filled with some of the best sake in Japan. When the next thing you see is a room set aside for rolling out and cutting soba noodles, it's even better. To find both of these as you enter LDH Kitchen Izakaya Aobadai is particularly reassuring.

Soba and sake have been classic components of Tokyo dining culture since the old days. Those who appreciate their subtle depths of flavor are considered connoisseurs, or tsū. What comes as a surprise at Izakaya Aobadai is that the tsū responsible sports blue hair and is a member of one of Japan's best-known boy bands, Exile.

Well-stocked: A wall of sake greets customers at the entrance of LDH Kitchen Izakaya Aobadai. | ROBBIE SWINNERTON
Well-stocked: A wall of sake greets customers at the entrance of LDH Kitchen Izakaya Aobadai. | ROBBIE SWINNERTON